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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.